So coming to the end of this build I want to share the steps that I completed this week. Apologies for the delayed upload as I had a 10 mile obstacle race; Total Warrior this weekend and was a little bruised and battered because of it. If you have not read the first three parts to this detailed blog series then I suggest jumping back to part one and catching up. so let's get to it!
I decided this build needed to start looking somewhere near complete at the end of this week's post, so needed to start covering up the remaining bits of unadulterated material, and first up the MDF front ring of the frame carcass. Taking a roll of masking, I taped off the line where the brickwork meets the MDF.
Using my acrylic paints I mixed up a suitable green colour and sprayed the entire front edge of the frame using the airbrush, followed by a stippling of a contrasting green. the resulting effect a suitably mottled, hobbit green finish.
Though this ring will not be visible on the finished piece I dislike leaving unfinished material on my builds.
Though I had already covered the backboard with green satin, I decided I didn't like the finished look. As with anything if you don't like it, change it. So the old satin was removed and all the upholstery pins saved for the second attempt. here you can see how I mark up my foam with a Sharpie prior to cutting along the lines with a rotary cutting blade.
using only one pin to hold the fabric from slipping, I start gently easing the fabric into the foam cuts with a soft plastic squeegee tool. Starting in the centre I form the fabric into the small triangles, allowing a little slack behind each so that the fabric is not pulled back out of the previous crease. this takes a little practice but once you get into a rhythm becomes quite easy. I am not applying the tacks straight away as they will tighten the slack fabric once I am happy with pattern.
Next I reapplied all the tacks. Following this step I used an iron set to hot, placed a cloth over each area of the completed backboard and used the steam boost button to set all the creases in place. The excess fabric around the edge was stretched tight and affixed to the back using a staple gun.
I used white primer to paint the edge of the MDF retention ring that will secure the acrylic window and drilled, countersunk and screwed this ring to the back of the green door frame, this is just a dry fitting to check alignment. this will be removed and painted in the same green as the door before final assembly.
Here you can see the recess that the acrylic pane with be secured within.
Time to cover the flexible MDF that makes up the inner wall of the frame. I used the same upholstery foam as the backboard and fixed it to the MDF using permanent spray adhesive. These pieces will be covered with the same bottle green satin fabric as the backboard, but will be padded in a different configuration where lines will only run vertically.
I marked up the foam and then used my rotary cutting tool to slice the foam along the lines, if you don't own one of these little time savers, I seriously recommend picking one up, they are only a couple of pounds including replacement blades and come in handy for countless tasks.
A piece of satin cloth was cut slightly larger than the MDF board and using the same plastic squeegee, starting at one end I eased the fabric into all of the cuts. small creases were removed with the iron set to high through a clean cloth.
No need for staples or pins at this stage, the fabric was simply and very carefully tucked behind the flexible board and nailed to the frame. Any slack in the fabric at this stage can will be removed when the backboard snugs into place.
Here we are at the end of this week's post, I'll leave you with a test fit of the backboard and door frame and of course the movie prop that started it all, Sting. I hope you are enjoying this build so far and will see you next week for some cosmetic touches and weathering.